Requirements for 38" chest (note that guernseys are now usually knitted a size larger but were traditionally a "tight fit")
16 x 50gms 5ply worsted wool
1 pair needles size 2.25mm (UK 13, US 1)
1 circular needle size 2.25mm (UK 13, US 1)
1 set of double pointed needles size 2.25mm (UK 13, US 1)
Tension 8 sts. and 12 rows to the inch
FRONT WELT.. Cast on 140 stitches with the straight needles (see table for other sizes) using the Knotted Edge Method (Cast on double wool twice round the thumb, knit stitch through all the loops then wool forward as for purl, thus making two stitches each time). This method is sometimes now called the Channel Island Cast On.
Knit 24 rows garter stitch. (Smaller sizes will need fewer rows).
NB. Slip the first stitch on each row to give a neater edge.
BACK WELT.. Same as given for front welt.
BODY. Join front and back welts on the 25th row by knitting, using the circular needle, 6 rounds of 2 Plain, 2 Purl (double rib) and make, by increasing one, a "seam" stitch on each side which is then knitted one row plain, one row purl throughout.
Change to stocking stitch and increase 20 stitches, evenly spaced, on the next round. There are now 302 st. ( more or less for other sizes) on the needle, including the seam stitches.
Knit to the required length less 12.5" (see table for armhole depth for other sizes).
Next round. Increase one on the third st. before and after each seam st.
Knit 2 rounds.
Next round. Increase one on the fourth stitch before and after each seam stitch.
Knit 2 rounds
Next round. Increase one on the fifth stitch before and after each seam stitch.
Knit 4 rounds.
There are now a total of 314 stitches on the needle. (note other sizes)
ARMHOLE TO SHOULDER ..Continue for 12.5” (see table for other sizes) with each round consisting of: seam stitch, 6 Stocking st, 6 Garter st., 132 Stocking st., 6 Garter st., 6 Stocking st. on both front and back.
The 6 Stocking stitches either side of the seam stitch are made by knitting into the back of each stitch so that they become twisted and will not run when the seam stitch is cut later.
NB. You may knit the front and back divided from the start of the armhole on straight needles if you prefer (in which case you would knit the seam stitch in together with the first of the 6 stocking stitches as it would no longer be needed).but the traditional way is to knit in the round the whole way to the shoulders and then cut through the seam stitch to sew in the armholes later.
1st SHOULDER.. Divide the work onto 2 straight needles and graft the back and front together by taking one stitch from either side and knitting them together
Knit the seam stitch in together with the first stitches as you begin the grafting.
Continue until 48 stitches from each side have been knitted together (more or less for other sizes…see table).
Turn and cast off these 48 stitches. Break off wool.
1st NECK GUSSET.. Using the circular needle or the double pointed needles, pick up and knit a stitch from the neck point of the first shoulder then knit one from the stitches left on the front needle.
Next row. Turn and slip the first stitch purlwise. Purl one then pick up and purl one from the back needle.
Next row. Turn and slip the first stitch knitwise. Knit 2 then pick up and knit one stitch from the front needle (4 stitches on needle
Next row. Turn and slip the first stitch purlwise, purl 3 then pick) up and purl a stitch from the back needle. (5 st. on needle)
Continue like this, picking up one stitch alternately from front and back until you have picked up a total of 21 stitches (10 stitches either side of the centre st.)
This is the first triangular neck gusset.
2nd SHOULDER AND 2nd NECK GUSSET.. Knit across the stitches on the front onto a double pointed or circular needle until you have 48 stitches only left on the front needle.
Slip the corresponding stitches from the back needle onto a spare needle or a stitch holder so that you are now left with 48 stitches front and back on the straight needles (more or less for other sizes) plus the seam stitch.
Graft the second shoulder together as given for the 1st shoulder knitting in the seam stitch at the end.to “lose” it.
Turn and cast off these 48 stitches leaving the last stitch as a starting point for the 2nd neck gusset. Which you now make in the same way as the 1st neck gusset
Knit across the stitches from the back to where 1st neck gusset begins. 122 stitches (more or less for other sizes) in total.
NECK.. Continue on the double pointed needles in 2 plain, 2 purl ribbing (knitting in two of the stitches together each side at the neck so that there are 120 stitches in total. Other sizes will be more or less but the total should be divisible by four)
Continue in rib for one or two inches.
Cast off loosely (use a larger needle if necessary) ribwise.
SLEEVES.. Cast on 80 stitches onto double pointed needles ( see table for other sizes) using the Knotted Edge method. Divide the stitches as evenly as possible around the three needles and knit one round.
NB Double pointed needles are usually sold in sets of 4 in the UK but 5 or more can be used if preferred.
Knit 2, 3 or 4 inches of double (2 plain, 2 purl) ribbing.
Change to stocking stitch and increase 8 stitches on the next round evenly spaced around the needles plus one at the end of the round for a seam stitch (89st) (more or less according to size)
Knit 6 rounds then increase one either side of the seam stitch.
Continue like this, increasing on every sixth round until there are 139 stitches in total (More or less for other sizes)
Continue knitting straight until sleeve is required underarm length minus 3 inches.
SLEEVE GUSSET.. Increase one stitch on both sides of the seam stitch on alternate rounds until there are 28 more stitches in total.
Knit 6 rounds of ribbing (2 Plain, 2 Purl) but keep the extra 28 stitches as stocking stitch plus the seam stitch, starting and ending the ribbing with purl.
Cast off all the stitches apart from the extra 28 of the underarm gusset which is completed by knitting two together at the end of each plain row to the end.
INSERTING SLEEVES.. Cut carefully through the seam stitch from the point of the shoulder to a suitable point for the sleeve to fit.
Hem in the raw edges by 2 or 3 stitches and sew in sleeves.