The end of the last Blue Water Rally

As it's been six weeks since my last posting, I thought I should write an update on events in Salalah as the remaining crews waited and waited as the temperatures rose and rose.... The good ship Palmerton that was to take all the yachts on her deck to Marmaris, Turkey at enormous expense, had been due in by the end of April, after just one or two delays. As I left for the wedding of the century in Dubrovnik on May 5th, the ship, had been rescheduled for the 8th or 9th of May.
This photo was taken on the day of that other, "slightly less important" wedding at the Oasis Club, the watering hole for all drinking seafarers in Salalah. (Thanks must go to Pete of Fai Tira for all of these pictures by the way.) I think just about everyone who was left in Oman was at this do. Many of the women and all of the children had already left and I'm not going to name everyone in this picture either but it was a very nice day off for us and most of us were also dressed up to add to the fun though the staff at the club frowned on anyone wearing local dress. No one dared wear a burkha of course but one or two men wore the dish dasha which looks very nice especially with a casually arranged shamaya (headscarf). They were told politely that it wouldn't be right for them to be seen like this and drinking! No contest there then!!


This was the home of the yachts for the three months in Salalah. Moonshiner is in the middle with the blue awning. We had long stern ropes leading out to the rocky slope on the shore and anchors from the bow so that all the yachts moved around together (mostly). The distance from the shore was about 25 metres I reckon and meant a dinghy pull along the ropes to the rocks to get ashore. Not always easy and it is somewhere on these horrible rocks that my purse has its grave. The ropes quickly turned green and slimy in the nutrient rich water and negotiating them in the dinghy often meant ducking under the cats cradle of jumbled lines while trying not to get covered in green stuff.
After I had left, the waiting continued and the day and night time temperatures rose to such heights that it became unbearable for most of the remaining crews to live or work on the boats so they moved en masse to the aircon luxury of the Hilton. I think they were given favourable rates too. We had all been very good customers for months!



Finally, at the very end of May, the Palmerton arrived and so the loading began. There were a few hiccups such as the ship's captain having been told that we were twenty motor boats. He hadn't therefore reckoned on masts being involved. One or two unfortunate yachts were therefore required to lower their masts so they could fit under the huge derricks. The harder working of the yacht's crews then spent the next three or four days helping to load the boats as seen here. This is Angel by the way, the yacht that had sailed in company with us for most of the time since Australia with Canadians David and Val aboard.

This is how it all happened. That's quite a height and I'm sure all the skippers were just ever so slightly apprehensive as they watched their yachts being lifted higher than they had ever been before....probably! This Fai Tira, a Bruce Russell boat (for those who may like to know). She's steel and therefore very strong!

Eventually, all the yachts were loaded on the deck of the Palmerton. It looks like a tight squeeze. Moonshiner is in the foreground, the middle yacht.

The trip to Marmaris through the Gulf of Aden, the Red Sea and Suez took about 8 days. The unloading in Turkey went smoothly and the crews rejoined their yachts. Many wives and partners flew out to rejoin their boats and there were one or two parties before most people went their separate ways. Some yachts are sailing through the Greek Islands and on across the Med to get back to the UK this year and some are aiming to get across the Atlantic by Christmas. Others are out of the water so that the owners can spend the rest of the year ashore. Although it was disappointing for many that the circumnavigation wasn't completed proper, the yachts at least did get around and the total distance covered by most has been more than the Earth's circumference. My personal log recorded since I joined in Gran Canaria in Dec 2008 covered over 24,000 miles anyway!

And Moonshiner? Guess what?

She's having her engine sorted out once and for all...............again!!!

More photos from Croatia that I have just found (26-1-12)

Where Mary and John stayed.









Dubrovnik is just up the coast.








John drove us up ino the hills behind the city. We had a picnic!








We drove on over the top heading deep into the countryside and getting quite a lot closer to Bosnia which is over that lot of hills if my memory serves me right.






Picture perfect!

Walking the walls of Dubrovnik to clear the after wedding fuzz.

We walked the whole way around these walls, over 6km in total according to Bro-in-law, John
but also an awful lot of steps which are just soooooo good for those leg muscles. I've missed being able to walk uphill while on the boat and it's quite hard work now!
I couldn't stop taking photos as we walked and I just happen to like little corners like this...

This is view to the west of the town and it's just as pretty.







More pictures across the town. As I said, I couldn't stop taking pictures. It's a little like a Mediterranean version of St Malo and around 1000 years old.





And here's the photographic evidence of Jenny's late night ramblings around 3am after the wedding. She wandered down the road with bare feet and stepped in the freshly painted road markings. Tee hee!

I had tried to leave the hat behind at the hotel but someone rescued it.......

Next post will be photos of our day out and about with Mary, John and Tabby when we ended up pretty close to Bosnia.

Just one or two of the millions of photos of Katharine and Mark's wedding.

I suppose I might have been supposed to make some sort of entrance? This is probably the only photo that does the dress justice that I have seen....I got slightly dishevelled (!) as the afternoon wore on, having discarded the hat after about 5 minutes, then the shawl, then my shoes......
Photo credit to Julie...many thanks.
The other photos were taken by Airz, Jenny's fiance and Dave, a friend of the groom, so thanks for these too. I had no room for a camera in that daft little bag I'm carrying.




Me and my girls.
This one is slightly out of sync (champagne already in hand?) but who cares about that? We were having a great time!




Jenny and Tabby were the party girls for sure. They carried on until 3am and 10am respectively. There is photographic evidence......!




Aaaaahhhh.












More aaaaahhhhhh. It must be one of the best backdrops there is.

Postcards from Dubrovnik.

I arrived here after 30 hours of travel from Oman (12 hours of coach to Muscat then 3 overnight flights via Qatar and Vienna), landing in what has to one of the most beautiful places on Earth......Dubrovnik, Croatia........and to carry out my role as mother of the bride at the "Hall family Event of the Year".
Niece, Tabby, (pictured here on the left with b-in-law John and sister Mary) arrived on the next flight from London along with Katharine and Mark, the already "very happy couple" and we taxied to the accommodations. Very nice apartment and 5 star hotel respectively!


Younger daughter, Jenny (pictures later!) and her fiance, Airz arrived the next day with my stepson Warren, his partner Julie (but soon to be Mrs. as he had proposed to her in Venice!) and their little girl, Rosalie, pictured here wearing an Omani cap. This was one of the presents I had brought from Salalah but it was too small for all the men and most of the women too so Rosa modelled it very well for us.

Warren, Julie and me at the apartment. Julie very kindly cooked a meal for us all. It was a very nice apartment, sleeping up to 6 adults and for just 80 euros a night. We had a huge balcony area that caught the sun in the morning mostly and nice views across the rooftops to the sea. There were lemons ripe for the plucking in the tree in the garden below us just outside the balcony, so we did. Just bring on the gin and tonic!

I had brought Omani headscarves for all the men in the Hall family wedding party which I think look really cool on almost everyone. Jenny's fiance, Airz modelled this one especially well. He looks like a native......

And so continuing the modelling theme.... This is the "dhofari", the typical dress of the Omani women who live in the Dhofar mountains, west of Salalah. It is very comfortable and practical for lounging around all day and I wore it a lot.......but not out in public! I also modelled the all black and total cover ensemble that the women wear out in public in Oman but if I posted a photo of it here, I might become the victim of a fatwa. Not for the fainthearted.

Next post will be the wedding and its aftermath......then the touristy bit when we "did" Croatia. Such a beautiful place........

It's time to go!

All of us at some point or other have had to renew our Oman visas which ran out after 30 days. The renewal cost 20rial (£32) and lasted for, guess what?...30 days! So, that meant we had to get out of the country or get fined daily for being illegal. The more affluent among us took the opportunity to leave the country for a few days and enjoy the delights of such places as the snow dome in Dubai. Others, (and this included us) opted for the slightly less expensive option which was to get the bus across the border and back into Oman with new visas, another 20 rial (but the pound is on the way up!). Oman borders Yemen, Saudi Arabia and the UAE so the choice was made for us. The bus trip to Dubai was 16 hours, mostly overnight with stops for food etc. We had an overnighter in downtown Dubai to recover before facing another 16 hours back........ so this is what I saw of it. Did I miss anything?
One strange thing that happened there. We were walking down a road in "original" Dubai when I suddenly realised that I "knew" this place. I turned around and there was the hotel that I had very briefly stayed in when I was last here 35 years ago. There was nothing familiar about any of the buildings around or the hotel itself, apart from its name but it was the same place for sure. Odd.




This has been our "address" for the past 9 weeks, down the jagged rocks and across the green divide pulling ourselves along by the slimy green mooring ropes...unless we were able (and we often were!) to get ashore in another dinghy with an outboard attached whose hapless owners have had to endure the zillions of barnacles that grow on anything that is sitting in the water here.

Also hidden somewhere in this picture is my purse that dropped out of my bag and into the murky depths one night while I was negotiating the rocks.......a very difficult situation out here....no bank cards, no cash etc. Kindly resolved by friends and family across the globe so that I can get to "the" wedding without having to hitch and starve all the way.....


Just across the way from us is the huge container terminal and other various berths. The vessel traffic is continuous, brightly lit and very noisy on occasion and some of the ships have funny names....if you can read this ones. The ship that is coming here to transport all 20 of the yachts to Turkey will probably be berthed near here. The loading is going to be quite difficult and a lot of work for some because most of the boats will only have one person on board, Moonshiner included as I won't be there! The latest news from Dockwise, the supposedly experienced handlers of yacht transporting, is that yet another ship is due to arrive here at the end of next week to take the fleet to Turkey....but we have heard that one before. It's a bit of a headache for those crews still around as they can't confirm flights out of here to Turkey until they know that the boats are securely on board, but as I said before, it won't concern me as I am already booked out of here on May 5th.....5 days and counting down....

This Russian viking style vessel had been on the quayside near the yachts ever since we got here. I thought it had been abandonned but then the crew turned up and started getting her ready for sea. They are a nice bunch by all accounts and most speak good English. (I didn't dare try out my few sentences of Russian on them.)

They have been sailing her for five years now, starting from somewhere near St Petersburg and the intention is to get to Australia. They leave tomorrow, May 1st. I hope they have safe trip as they will be going through pirate territory and I doubt they will be able to outrun anyone! It's not funny really.....it's dangerous out there for boats on their own so let's hope the Russian navy are around...they take no prisoners. In our opinion, the Indian and Russian navies have the best record when dealing with the pirates who are for the most part complete savages......sink the lot of them!

I am spending my last few days here trying to organise stuff on the boat, deciding what to leave behind (in safe hands) and what to bring home. I ought to get another huge bag to put it all in but I'm going to be very disciplined and tough with myself and just wear the same clothes while back home until I can get back to ebay. Oh, how I have missed that!!!!!!

Knitting a wedding cake in the desert.

We ( Angel's David and Val, Fai Tira's John and me went on a 24 hour safari into the desert, also known as the "Empty Quarter", the largest area of sand dunes in the world at 650,000 sq km. We were to drive with an experienced guide, Suhail, in his wonderfully airconditioned 4x4 across the coastal plain of Oman, up into the Dhofari mountains, across the plateau which turns green with the rains after July, through the increasingly dry, rocky and dusty desert landscape and on into the sandy desert proper with nothing but dunes, dunes and more dunes as far as the eye can see. Fantastic! On the way, we stopped for lunch and had a huge meal at a roadside cafe for a whole rial (that's£1.60 to you), then stopped again to look at frankincense trees growing wild. I could put a photo in, but in the end, it's just a tree with some greenery at the top and you need to be there to experience it. Suhail cut into the bark to start it bleeding and showed us other cuts from earlier expeditions where the sap had oozed sufficiently over three weeks to enable "harvesting". It was incredibly sticky...sand is good for cleaning hands I found,.... and also strangely edible...we tried some...the frankincense I mean!




We stopped again just before the desert proper to have a look around the ruins of a lost city over 4000 years old. "Shisur" is just one of its names I believe. It used to be a very important watering hole on the frankincense route from Dhofar to the north. A huge sink hole there is now dry however because they are trying to grow grass for the camels and have sunk 40m wells all over the place to provide enough water. It does look a little odd to see huge areas of dusty brown dotted all over with squares of bright green. I hope the plan works. There is nothing else much around for the camels and there are thousands of them to feed. The camels out here are almost black by the way, a separate breed I read somewhere.

After about 5 hours, we found the true sandy desert, the fabled "Empty Quarter" which is the very same place that Wilfred Thesiger came to in 1950 when he crossed this vast area with the Bedouin, fell in love with one or two of the younger Arab boys (!) and eventually spent five years with them. I had no idea that he started his journey in Salalah, as I had read the book 40 years ago and forgotten all the details except that I wanted to go there too some day. I went through a patch when I was about 14 where I had a minor obsession with all things arab.......the horses of course, the Bedouin way of life ( it may have been those ads for Turkish Delight that hooked me?)........and Omar Sharif!! I have now started to re read this wonderful book seeing it all again with so much more insight.

We drove deep into the dune area until we were completely surrounded by huge mounds of tan coloured sand. I was looking for the classic shape, a barchan dune...the crescent shaped ones and the only name I could remember from geography lessons. I found thousands of them, varying in size from just a few feet across and about three feet high to some that were miles across and mountainous. These huge dunes were naturally the most spectacular with beautiful natural curves and wave patterns within them formed by wind changes over many years. We stopped briefly on our route to find a suitable campsite for the night and walked in the dunes for the first time. The sand was extremely hot, having been heating up in the fierce sun all day but very difficult to walk on with shoes. We tried to walk along the ridge of a huge dune that wound upwards into the distance and could only manage a couple of hundred yards. Practice needed. The photo above (by John) was taken in the morning when the top sand was delightfully cool. We were slipping and sliding down the steep slopes that form on the back edge of the dunes where the sand is really soft. Climbing up beforehand is very very hard work....excellent exercise for lots of under used leg muscles! I resisted the urge to roll down the slope...the sand is very fine and dusty...almost impossible to shake off I should think.

I know this is yet another picture of the sand but I have dozens more! The sand changed colour as the day wore on but my camera didn't really capture the true colours very well. It was almost blue on occasion in the shadows. I think Val is in this picture somewhere. She went off on a long trek for a call of nature.......it was quite difficult to get to a place out of sight, and very very hard work!

Suhail prepared a typical Arab meal for us of camel stew with rice, salad, cheese and bananas for later. One or two of us had brought a beer or two that had stayed just cool enough to drink and Suhail also gave us hot ginger tea which was quite nice (for a lifetime non tea drinker). Suhail, a muslim obviously, didn't mind thank goodness. He went off to pray at sunset.....at least we then knew in which direction Mecca lay! He must be one of very few people in the world who is able to navigate safely through this amazing terrain. There are tyre tracks all over the place but most of them were from previous treks like ours guided by Suhail. He said that the tracks can last for some time but usually get covered over by sand as the wind blows (hot by day and cool at night) and small dunes appear which eventually obscure all signs. It rains approximately every five years and then the small plants which are dotted around everywhere spring to life. The effects of the rain last a long time however and a lot of the plants were a lovely yellowy green. The dead" plants are still alive too, the roots just waiting for a rainy day.

We settled down for the night, having chosen sleeping spots all around the campsite. Suhail had provided mattresses, sleeping bags and pillows. The sand was surprisingly hard to sleep on though and I didn't get a lot of rest! The temperature dropped a fair amount as the night wore on and I put on another layer. When my feet got cold, I pushed them into the sand which had retained a lot of daytime heat. Very cosy! There was a full moon so the night started of quite brightly lit, not good for star gazing but later on, after it had set, the stars came out very nicely and scorpio dominated the sky. For a lot of people, this might be their best night of star gazing but for us yachties, it was quite normal. What was unusual for us, however, was the silence.....absolute stillness..... apart from our breathing, OK and just a little snoring too.......

Next morning I climbed higher up on the dune to have this photo taken and hopefully to fulfill my quest which is to have this come up on Google, if one types in the title of this piece.... I can't try it until I post this but I live in hope! We had a good breakfast of flat bread, eggs, cheese, yogurt, fruit and tea before packing up and setting off out across the dunes back onto the road. On the way, Suhail drove us across the flats which are littered with thousands and thousands of huge geodes. We got out and I picked up as many as I could carry. I learned which ones were likely to be good specimens. Excess baggage may be payable!

As we picked our way through new dunes, cleverly avoiding the soft sand that bogs the vehicles down, Suhail spotted a Bedouin camp in the distance...so we drove up, stopped, got out and were introduced to real nomads ( except for the 4x4). We sat outside their tent and drank hot sweet tea .... Val and I had to cover up a little and sit on the outer edge of the group...that was fine by us! They chatted away in arabic and passed us pieces of some weird local sweet...an acquired taste I think. We said goodbye and drove off to where their camels were kept. I tried some fresh camel's milk. Hmm!

A few hours of driving later and we were back at the port. On the way, I continued trying to speak just a few words of arabic with Suhail's help. Not very successful! I had thought that I had done well by being able to read the "Stop" sign, the word I believed being pronounced "khif". Suhail had us in stitches over this one. The correct pronunciation goes a bit like this....gather up all the "stuff" in the back of your throat and start as if you mean to cough it all up, really fiercely, but don't. Instead, sort of bark out the sound "kh" and then add "rruffff" as loudly as you can. Very very difficult. I'm still practising just that one word. I have a long way to go.

This has been a long piece but then , it was a very full 24 hours we spent out there so no apologies. I loved it.